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                                 10 PERKARA PEMANDU BERODA 4 PATUT TAHU TENTANG MOTOSIKAL.

         Moto ni lagi senang nak elak berbanding kereta atau lori. Tapi rider sendiri pon mesti ambil safety measures sendiri. Pemandu jalan raya pon sama,kena sentiasa peka dengan motosikal yg bergerak di sekeliling nya.Ni ada sedikit tips apa yg patut dijangka tentang motosikal.

1. Ada banyak motosikal atas jalanraya ni. Dan sesetengah pemandu ni tak sedar akan penunggang motosikal (kebiasaannya secara tidak sengaja).Next time,kalau nk check traffic ketieka membelok,tengok dulu kot2 ada motosikal nak lalu.

2. Disebabkan kebanyakkan motosikal kat Malaysia ni size S dan M,moto ni nampak lagi jauh dari jarak sebenar. So susah nak agak berapa kelajuan sebenar mereka. Jadi kalau nk buat traffic checking,nak masuk junction or kluar junction ke,mana mana la,set kat kepala otak yg moto ni sebenarnya lagi dekat dari pandangan kita. kan ada tulis kat side mirror kereta,the object in mirror maybe closer.(sikit2 macam tu la)

3. kerana size kecil die juga,motosikal ni senang tersembunyi di blind spot kereta macam pintu kereta,atau pon dilindungi oleh objek2 dan background di luar kereta macam pokok dan pagar. Jadi ambil extra moment untuk check traffic 360 darjah. Sama ada nak tukar lane ataupon masok simpang.

4. Moto ni lagi laju dari apa yg kita igt. Tapi jgn assume semua rider tu speed demons.

5. Motosikal ni kebiasaannya perlahan secara lepas throttle atau turun gear...sebab ada yg malas guna brek. So lampu brek belakang tu x menyala,jadi cuba increase jarak di antara kereta anda dengan motosikal di depan. dalam 3 atau 4 saat. Benda ni slalu terjadi di traffic light.

6. signal,motosikal punya signal lain dari kereta,tidak ada self cancelling macam kereta.So biasanya,(biasa beginner) terlupa nak switch off signal.Terutama selepas masuk corner atau tukar lane.

7. Motosikal biasanya selalu adjust position di antara lane untuk orang lain lebih nampak atau sedar kehadiran mereka, dan juga meminimizekan kesan road debris,kenderaan lebih laju, dan angin. Bear in mind that rider2 ni banyak adjust motosikal mereka di atas jalan ada sebab, bukan nak show off atau cuai.

8. Manueverability is one of motorcycles better charachteristics. Lagi2 ketika perlahan atau keadaan jalan raya yg kelas pertama. Tapi jangan ingat semua penunggang motor boleh elak semua benda.

9. Jarak ketika berhenti motosikal hampir sama dengan kereta, tapi jalan yg licin kadang2 lagi susah nak brek. Macam biasa jarakkan kenderaan di belakang motosikal kerana tak semua motosikal boleh berhenti dengan cepat.

10. Terakhir,bila nampak ada motosikal di atas jalan raya,ingat bahawa yang bergerak tu bukan motosikal sahaja,tapi juga manusia.

Harap semua perkara di atas sedikit sbnyak boleh membantu kita semua.Thank you dan Assalamualaikum.

BIKERS VS REMPIT:VOL 1

       Rempit dan bikers adalah dua perkara yang berlainan.saya tak mengatakan semua kapcai rempit,dan saya tak panggil semua SBK riders/bikers.

Rempit dan Bikers berbeza daripada mentality,attitude,appearence..dan knowledge.

kalau naik SBK pakai full appearence,tapi bawa melulu,dia ada appearence,tapi tak ada attitude.so,rempit la juga.

kalau naik c70 sekali pun,pemakaian riding gear yang proper,lengkap,tunggang berhemah,rider.

even kalau naik kapcai,pakai seluar pendek,selipar,ms88,bawa berhemah,dia ada attitude,tapi tak ada mentality dan appearence.

jangan cakap orang label kapcai kasta rendah.selama pakcik saya dan saya naik Awana,tak ada seorang pun brother SBK panggil kami rempit or apa.yang penting appearence,attitude,mentality.lain lah kalau group kapcai yang naik genting pakai apollo naik ke bulan,ms88 dan sebagainya.

Guide to Group Riding

Motorcycling is primarily a solo activity, but for many, riding as a group -- whether with friends on a Sunday morning ride or with an organized motorcycle rally -- is the epitome of the motorcycling experience. Here are some tips to help ensure a fun and safe group ride:

Arrive prepared. Arrive on time with a full gas tank.

Hold a riders’ meeting. Discuss things like the route, rest and fuel stops, and hand signals (see diagrams on next page). Assign a lead and sweep (tail) rider. Both should be experienced riders who are well-versed in group riding procedures. The leader should assess everyone’s riding skills and the group’s riding style.

Keep the group to a manageable size, ideally five to seven riders. If necessary, break the group into smaller sub-groups, each with a lead and sweep rider.

Ride prepared. At least one rider in each group should pack a cell phone, first-aid kit, and full tool kit, so the group is prepared for any problem that they might encounter.

Ride in formation. The staggered riding formation (see diagram below) allows a proper space cushion between motorcycles so that each rider has enough time and space to maneuver and to react to hazards. The leader rides in the left third of the lane, while the next rider stays at least one second behind in the right third of the lane; the rest of the group follows the same pattern. A single-file formation is preferred on a curvy road, under conditions of poor visibility or poor road surfaces, entering/leaving highways, or other situations where an increased space cushion or maneuvering room is needed.

Avoid side-by-side formations, as they reduce the space cushion. If you suddenly needed to swerve to avoid a hazard, you would not have room to do so. You don’t want handlebars to get entangled.

Periodically check the riders following in your rear view mirror. If you see a rider falling behind, slow down so they may catch up. If all the riders in the group use this technique, the group should be able to maintain a fairly steady speed without pressure to ride too fast to catch up.

If you’re separated from the group, don’t panic. Your group should have a pre-planned procedure in place to regroup. Don’t break the law or ride beyond your skills to catch up.

Cara betul mengambil selekoh.

Unless you’re a drag racer, corners are what bikes are all about. They’re the holy grail and the bread and butter of biking, but few riders really understand them in depth. You can tell the ones who do - they’re faster, safer and have more fun than the unenlightened.

Every corner has its own unique nuances and subtleties, but every corner in the world can be broken down into three main parts - Entry, Apex and Exit. How you deal with each one is important, but how you put them together is crucial - you’re looking for a smooth transition between each part of the bend.



1. Entry
This can be subdivided further into Approach and Turn-in. The Approach is where you get down to a speed and gear that seems about right, and position yourself in the best place to tackle the bend. That means giving yourself the best visibililty, so for a left hand bend you’ll be as far over to the right as is practical, and for a righthander you’ll be as far over to the left. On a racetrack you can use the whole width of the tarmac but real roads have oncoming traffic, potholes, gutters and white lines which will mean you have to modify your line to suit.

The closer you get to the turn, the more you’re looking for your turn-in point. This is the point at which you really make the bike steer, rather than just following the road - on a very long or tight curve you might get three-quarters of the way round the bend before you actually turn in.
The way to spot the turn-in point is to know where the exit is, then draw the shortest practical line between where you are and that apex point. On a racetrack you know where the exit is because you have as many laps as you like to learn it, so you can work out a turn-in point in advance. On the road, you have to actually see the exit before you can identify the apex, which means you end up going deeper into the corner before you turn in.

2. Apex
This is the heart of the bend, where you’ll be leant over further than anywhere else in the bend it’s the balance point between the way in and the way out. You hear racers talk about hitting an apex, and they’ll mean hitting it consistently within an inch or so, lap after lap. On the road accuracy is still important, otherwise you’re wasting time. On a left hand bend the apex will be as far over to the right as it’s practical and safe to go, on the right it’ll be as far over to the left.

3. Exit
From the moment you hit the exit, you should be concentrating on the exit, and concentrating on getting there as fast as possible. That means getting the power down, which means balancing available tyre grip with increasing throttle. That’s a balance that changes from corner to corner and from bike to bike, but the crucial thing is to feed the throttle in firmly and gently, not just crack it on full in one go. The further you’re leant over, the less throttle you can apply, but as you gradually ease the bike upright you can apply correspondingly more throttle, until by the time you’re halfway back up to upright again you’ll probably be close to full throttle, powering out of the bend and on towards the next one.